Reading Women's Clothing in Hormozgan from Roland Barthes' Perspective: A Semiotic Analysis of Signs in Kandureh and Shila

Abstract

This study employs Roland Barthes' semiological approach to examine the traditional clothing of women in Hormozgan, particularly Kandureh and Shila, utilizing a qualitative research methodology based on semiotic analysis. The primary objective is to represent the semantic, cultural, and social layers embedded in these garments and to analyze how they transform into multilayered texts within their cultural context. The research adopts a qualitative, interpretive-critical method, drawing upon historical sources, anthropological documents, and Barthes' theoretical framework. The findings reveal that Kandureh, characterized by its loose fit, vibrant colors, and diverse ornamentation, symbolizes communal life, social vitality, and the creative agency of Hormozgan's women. In contrast, Shila, with its more subdued form, harmonious colors, and delicate embellishments, predominantly expresses ritual values, social norms, and the cultural status of women. Barthes' tri-level analysis (denotation, connotation, and myth) demonstrates that these garments transcend their utilitarian function as coverings, embodying historical and cultural identity while reproducing value systems and social structures. Consequently, Kandureh and Shila function as cultural texts, enabling the study of clothing's role in representing identity, power dynamics, and the intangible heritage of Hormozgan's women.